Thursday, June 26, 2014
Sunday, June 8, 2014
Built My First Point
Over the last two weeks I took up the challenge to build a turnout. Well after much perseverance I am quite happy with the result.
I made a few errors. The stock rails are little too short and the first frog I made disintegrated and came apart during a soldering job, so I had to basically rebuild the frog.
I used about 1 mm for the flange-ways and tried to keep close to the AMRA fine tolerance standard. I noticed that the wheels on the wagons and locos also need to be precise, so will need to look at each of the wheel-sets at a later time.
The sense of accomplishment seeing a few trains run through the point that I just built was all worth the frustration at the end. There were many times when I was about to throw in the towel! I will use this point in the yard somewhere.
I made a few sleepers using paddle-pop sticks and tried to keep to the VR profile as much as possible.
One advantage of creating your own is the spacing of the dead frog. Since I was able to reduce this area by about 3cms (on the PECO large points, this distance is about 10cm), my short wheel loco, the Y class, happily moves through this area without any pauses with both frog rails isolated. I still need to trim down the PCB sleepers and paint the sleepers. I am now keen to make another one.
I need to work out how to secure the point rails. One of the nice things about the PECO points are the spring-loaded mechs. Any ideas would be appreciated.
Here are some photos.
I made a few errors. The stock rails are little too short and the first frog I made disintegrated and came apart during a soldering job, so I had to basically rebuild the frog.
I used about 1 mm for the flange-ways and tried to keep close to the AMRA fine tolerance standard. I noticed that the wheels on the wagons and locos also need to be precise, so will need to look at each of the wheel-sets at a later time.
The sense of accomplishment seeing a few trains run through the point that I just built was all worth the frustration at the end. There were many times when I was about to throw in the towel! I will use this point in the yard somewhere.
I made a few sleepers using paddle-pop sticks and tried to keep to the VR profile as much as possible.
One advantage of creating your own is the spacing of the dead frog. Since I was able to reduce this area by about 3cms (on the PECO large points, this distance is about 10cm), my short wheel loco, the Y class, happily moves through this area without any pauses with both frog rails isolated. I still need to trim down the PCB sleepers and paint the sleepers. I am now keen to make another one.
I need to work out how to secure the point rails. One of the nice things about the PECO points are the spring-loaded mechs. Any ideas would be appreciated.
Here are some photos.
Tracing an original point and I used this as a template.
This idea was created by DKRickman and used from this site
I used super-glue to fix the sleepers to the rails
Nearly completed point.
Saturday, May 24, 2014
Pass me the ballast
Has been a pretty good last two weeks on the modelling front.
My staging tracks are still there which is a good sign that it may be a permanent fixture. As I was saying to you in my previous post, I added staging even though it eats up alot of precious space I can ill-afford.
Even though I made it easy as possible to make up trains using the big 0-5-0, it became tiring to do, hence I added staging back on the baseboard. Obviously the major benefit is that trains are all ready to go when I want to see something running.
I did make a modification. I wasn't too happy with the length of the stub-ended sidings as I like to see more than a single unit heading at times, so I made the staging yard tracks little bigger and managed to fit in two extra tracks which means I now have eight tracks, four for up and four for down trains. If I am going to devote this space for staging, I might as well use the possible space as efficiently as possible, which means trying to fit as many staging tracks as possible without it being too over-crowded.
All this staging is nice, however what I gained with ready-to-run trains, I lost in scenery space. I think I now have about 30% dedicated for staging, 30% yard/operation and 40% scenery.
I also made a minor modification on the "Down" end of the yard. I have re-arranged the point work so it is possible to have a head-shunt on this end as well, and this siding can also be used as a cattle siding, enough to fit about two or three wagons. It seems to look good so far. I added stud ended siding from the Goods Shed road. This siding will only be used as a Programming Track. I use to have the Programming Track on the peninsula, and it came in really handy. Unfortunately this adds another point to the yard. I wanted to adjust this side of the yard before I begin ballasting here.
Still unhappy with the flat nature of the layout, I have dropped some of the baseboards to model the undulating terrain. Looks so much better. I think I will have a culvert in this location, with a small water steam disappearing into it.
I have also began to ballast the yard. The method is quite different compared to ballasting the main line. Here, I pick up some ballast from a cup and sprinkle it on to the layout. Unfortunately I ran out of ballast to complete the yard.
I have also begun to ballast the yard. The method is quite different compared to ballasting the main line. Here, I pick up some ballast from a cup and sprinkle it on to the layout. I then use a spray bottle with a real fine mist to spray a 50% PVA glue and 50% water mix with a touch of detergent on to the ballast. I think it looks quite good. May airbrush "rust" mixture over it later.
My staging tracks are still there which is a good sign that it may be a permanent fixture. As I was saying to you in my previous post, I added staging even though it eats up alot of precious space I can ill-afford.
Even though I made it easy as possible to make up trains using the big 0-5-0, it became tiring to do, hence I added staging back on the baseboard. Obviously the major benefit is that trains are all ready to go when I want to see something running.
I did make a modification. I wasn't too happy with the length of the stub-ended sidings as I like to see more than a single unit heading at times, so I made the staging yard tracks little bigger and managed to fit in two extra tracks which means I now have eight tracks, four for up and four for down trains. If I am going to devote this space for staging, I might as well use the possible space as efficiently as possible, which means trying to fit as many staging tracks as possible without it being too over-crowded.
All this staging is nice, however what I gained with ready-to-run trains, I lost in scenery space. I think I now have about 30% dedicated for staging, 30% yard/operation and 40% scenery.
I also made a minor modification on the "Down" end of the yard. I have re-arranged the point work so it is possible to have a head-shunt on this end as well, and this siding can also be used as a cattle siding, enough to fit about two or three wagons. It seems to look good so far. I added stud ended siding from the Goods Shed road. This siding will only be used as a Programming Track. I use to have the Programming Track on the peninsula, and it came in really handy. Unfortunately this adds another point to the yard. I wanted to adjust this side of the yard before I begin ballasting here.
Still unhappy with the flat nature of the layout, I have dropped some of the baseboards to model the undulating terrain. Looks so much better. I think I will have a culvert in this location, with a small water steam disappearing into it.
I have also began to ballast the yard. The method is quite different compared to ballasting the main line. Here, I pick up some ballast from a cup and sprinkle it on to the layout. Unfortunately I ran out of ballast to complete the yard.
I have also begun to ballast the yard. The method is quite different compared to ballasting the main line. Here, I pick up some ballast from a cup and sprinkle it on to the layout. I then use a spray bottle with a real fine mist to spray a 50% PVA glue and 50% water mix with a touch of detergent on to the ballast. I think it looks quite good. May airbrush "rust" mixture over it later.
Head Shunt on Down End of yard with new siding for "Programming Track"
Possible Cattle Loading siding
Ballasting
On a side note, today marks the day we left for our 4 week holiday to Poland last year. Their railways are quite fascinating. It's pretty much a working museum. One revenue service is hauled by a steam loco. The experience of walking into the round-house at Wolsztyn with those giant steamers being worked on and the scent of coal and oil was just an incredibly amazing experience. Do see the complete video below to see some of their amazing rolling-stock in action.
Sunday, May 11, 2014
"Staging" back on the agenda
Even though I made it as easy as possible to place consists on the track before running a train, it eventually became tiring to do. So I have now re-considered staging.
I have done away with the peninsula I had and the shed looks so much bigger, moving about is alot more easier, so placing staging at that location is out of the question.
The challenge was to find a suitable location and staging has to serve both clock-wise and anti-clockwise movements. Further, trains should run the entire circuit of the shed without going through a scene twice.
I find it quite amazing in this hobby the number of challenges I encounter. Alot of people out there think we play with train-sets but the amount of thought and problem-solving that goes into it is just amazing. I am always impressed with Craig's schematic.
One of the issues I had with my previous attempts at staging was the incongruous site of having all that track and wagons at a "prime" viewing location as well as the huge consumption of real-estate. I would need to hide staging, however this comes with its own challenges, of easy access to the wagons and locos.
I began to experiment with what was possible if anything at all.
I have this 1 mm sheeting that I put up a while back to block the sun rays coming onto the layout near the entrance of the shed. Given its thickness, it bends quite easily. I began cutting about 4 inch high strips and affixed them to some 3mm MDF. Obviously, going ahead with this idea of having staging, I would have to sacrifice some layout space. I chose the far end of the layout for this experiment. This meets both the conditions mentioned above. Remember this is only an experiment.
If I could use this sheeting to hide staging, maybe it would work? I ploughed ahead with the idea. I came out with three stub ended sidings for up trains and three sidings for down trains (As Darren would say, "Lets not be greedy")
Once the 4inch sheeting had been erected to hide staging, the difference to the scene was very encouraging!
I think I will continue this experiment and see what comes of it. I will need to paint the white sheeting. I was thinking to paint them black, but other thoughts include cream, grey, green, or just leave them white or a combination?
I have done away with the peninsula I had and the shed looks so much bigger, moving about is alot more easier, so placing staging at that location is out of the question.
The challenge was to find a suitable location and staging has to serve both clock-wise and anti-clockwise movements. Further, trains should run the entire circuit of the shed without going through a scene twice.
I find it quite amazing in this hobby the number of challenges I encounter. Alot of people out there think we play with train-sets but the amount of thought and problem-solving that goes into it is just amazing. I am always impressed with Craig's schematic.
One of the issues I had with my previous attempts at staging was the incongruous site of having all that track and wagons at a "prime" viewing location as well as the huge consumption of real-estate. I would need to hide staging, however this comes with its own challenges, of easy access to the wagons and locos.
I began to experiment with what was possible if anything at all.
I have this 1 mm sheeting that I put up a while back to block the sun rays coming onto the layout near the entrance of the shed. Given its thickness, it bends quite easily. I began cutting about 4 inch high strips and affixed them to some 3mm MDF. Obviously, going ahead with this idea of having staging, I would have to sacrifice some layout space. I chose the far end of the layout for this experiment. This meets both the conditions mentioned above. Remember this is only an experiment.
If I could use this sheeting to hide staging, maybe it would work? I ploughed ahead with the idea. I came out with three stub ended sidings for up trains and three sidings for down trains (As Darren would say, "Lets not be greedy")
Once the 4inch sheeting had been erected to hide staging, the difference to the scene was very encouraging!
I think I will continue this experiment and see what comes of it. I will need to paint the white sheeting. I was thinking to paint them black, but other thoughts include cream, grey, green, or just leave them white or a combination?
Sunday, April 27, 2014
ANZAC day long weekend
Friday
Ballasting begins.
Friday morning I felt like doing some ballasting. Its taken me a very long time to get to this point! Ballasting is easy to do, and easy to get wrong. It is time consuming, however I couldn't believe the difference the ballasting made. The layout looked more like a model of a railway rather than a model railway. I was very happy with the results.
I began with the main line, as I will use the heavier ballast, together with a higher profile. I was going to do the same for Road No. 2, but since this is a yard, I will use smaller ballast. I initially was going to use the same profile height for road 2, but most yards have this road on the same height profile as the other yard tracks. So I had to remove the 3mm cork and MDF roadbed and use 1mm plastic sheeting. The results were very pleasing.
For rest of this day, I started painting the odd sleeper a grey to weather the sleepers. Again, the results were incredible. The yard seemed to have come to life.
In the evening, I wanted to use up that florist wire I had bought some time back and decided to make some trees. It was quite difficult using the gauge 20 wire as this seems too hard to work with. The 18 gauge wire was much better.
Saturday
Saturday was spent filling the sleeper gaps. Thought I'd better get this ready before ballasting.
I applied paste to one of the trees I made the previous night. This took a good hour as this tree is quite large.
I continued to do some ballasting. I did begin using some finer ballast on the stub ended siding, but had to redo this section as I wasn't too happy with the results.
I was inspired by this photo on Andrew's blog, so I tried my hand on building a signal cabinet. Little rough on the edges but it looks quite good on the layout. Needs a coat of paint or two.
Sunday
As I mentioned previously, I had used 3mm cork on all roads of the yard. As we all know, yard tracks don't have that high a profile, (as Darren lets me know) - so how to overcome this? I didn't want to bring the main line profile down to ground level because I don't like the look. I initially thought about filling in this area with smaller ballast, another thought was to fill in the space between tracks with 3mm cork, bringing the tracks to a constant height, but this was going to be too much hassle and may not work out well.
I finally settled on bringing these tracks, including road 2, down to near ground level. I say near, because I used 1mm plastic sheeting. I prefer some height compared to no height at all. This made a big difference to the appearance and it now looks like a yard.
This afternoon I applied another coat of paste to the tree I made. Also plugged some of those sleeper gaps.
Ballasting begins.
Friday morning I felt like doing some ballasting. Its taken me a very long time to get to this point! Ballasting is easy to do, and easy to get wrong. It is time consuming, however I couldn't believe the difference the ballasting made. The layout looked more like a model of a railway rather than a model railway. I was very happy with the results.
I began with the main line, as I will use the heavier ballast, together with a higher profile. I was going to do the same for Road No. 2, but since this is a yard, I will use smaller ballast. I initially was going to use the same profile height for road 2, but most yards have this road on the same height profile as the other yard tracks. So I had to remove the 3mm cork and MDF roadbed and use 1mm plastic sheeting. The results were very pleasing.
For rest of this day, I started painting the odd sleeper a grey to weather the sleepers. Again, the results were incredible. The yard seemed to have come to life.
In the evening, I wanted to use up that florist wire I had bought some time back and decided to make some trees. It was quite difficult using the gauge 20 wire as this seems too hard to work with. The 18 gauge wire was much better.
Saturday
Saturday was spent filling the sleeper gaps. Thought I'd better get this ready before ballasting.
I applied paste to one of the trees I made the previous night. This took a good hour as this tree is quite large.
I continued to do some ballasting. I did begin using some finer ballast on the stub ended siding, but had to redo this section as I wasn't too happy with the results.
I was inspired by this photo on Andrew's blog, so I tried my hand on building a signal cabinet. Little rough on the edges but it looks quite good on the layout. Needs a coat of paint or two.
Sunday
As I mentioned previously, I had used 3mm cork on all roads of the yard. As we all know, yard tracks don't have that high a profile, (as Darren lets me know) - so how to overcome this? I didn't want to bring the main line profile down to ground level because I don't like the look. I initially thought about filling in this area with smaller ballast, another thought was to fill in the space between tracks with 3mm cork, bringing the tracks to a constant height, but this was going to be too much hassle and may not work out well.
I finally settled on bringing these tracks, including road 2, down to near ground level. I say near, because I used 1mm plastic sheeting. I prefer some height compared to no height at all. This made a big difference to the appearance and it now looks like a yard.
This afternoon I applied another coat of paste to the tree I made. Also plugged some of those sleeper gaps.
Results of ballasting
Ballasting with weather sleepers
Applying paste to tree made from Gauge 20 Florist wire
Profile of track - heights
Signal cabinet - my first plastic built structure on the layout!
Trees painted - in progress
Monday, April 21, 2014
Tuesday Nighters & Easter Long Weekend
Was a busy week. First I held the Tuesday nights and the usual suspects turned up. There were some comments about the layout. Even though I have a major railway town depicted on one side of the room and a "minor" town on the other,
it was apparent that this distinction is not strong enough with one person thinking both were connected. Having no divider, I can see how the two locations can be hard to segregate. So, with this in mind, I have dropped the minor town idea and will have a country scene instead. The added benefits of this are many. I have less track. I have three less points. I have more space for scenery. My layout now is about 70 % scenery. So far I have reduced the number of points by nine! And that's not including all those points I had for staging.
Craig also suggested whether I was going to have it all flat and I replied yes. But thinking about it later, the layout does look too flat for my liking, so I will be using that new space to have some sort of bridge with a river scene. Looking up google maps, there seems to be plenty of these on the Western line in Victoria.
There was alot of talk about what I should do with the peninsula. Some suggested converting that area to staging. The problem with this is that this spoils the approach scene into the yard. Another issue is that I will need to have two points here, one for trains that travel clock-wise and another for those that travel anti-clockwise, to enter and exit staging. I don't think I will pursue this. I only run one train at a time anyway, or maximum two, so staging is not a requirement on this layout.
In other developments, another point has been made into live frogs and the home signal on the down end is now in place. Will need to make up two signal circuits, one for the major aspect and another for the low-speed, before these searchlights are lit.
it was apparent that this distinction is not strong enough with one person thinking both were connected. Having no divider, I can see how the two locations can be hard to segregate. So, with this in mind, I have dropped the minor town idea and will have a country scene instead. The added benefits of this are many. I have less track. I have three less points. I have more space for scenery. My layout now is about 70 % scenery. So far I have reduced the number of points by nine! And that's not including all those points I had for staging.
Craig also suggested whether I was going to have it all flat and I replied yes. But thinking about it later, the layout does look too flat for my liking, so I will be using that new space to have some sort of bridge with a river scene. Looking up google maps, there seems to be plenty of these on the Western line in Victoria.
There was alot of talk about what I should do with the peninsula. Some suggested converting that area to staging. The problem with this is that this spoils the approach scene into the yard. Another issue is that I will need to have two points here, one for trains that travel clock-wise and another for those that travel anti-clockwise, to enter and exit staging. I don't think I will pursue this. I only run one train at a time anyway, or maximum two, so staging is not a requirement on this layout.
In other developments, another point has been made into live frogs and the home signal on the down end is now in place. Will need to make up two signal circuits, one for the major aspect and another for the low-speed, before these searchlights are lit.
Home Signal into yard - Down End
B60 waits in road 2 for opposing traffic.
Sunday, April 13, 2014
Rust On The Main Line
Rust On The Main Line
Yesterday, the weather was abnormally warm for this time of the year. Actually it hit 31.3 C. This inspired me to get out the airbrush and do some rusting of the side rails as I cannot bear looking at those unrealistic shiny sides. Using my previous mix of humbrols, I got cracking. Unfortunately on two occasions I forget to add the cover to the cup where the paint is kept on the airbrush and most of the paint landed on the concrete instead. The hardest part when it comes to airbrushing is the preparation and the cleaning of the airbrush after, which takes alot of time. However, the speed of execution and end result make it all worth while.
I also managed to paint my I and QR wagon which I had built awhile back but never got to painting.
In real life rust has different hues, and hence track can be grey, dark-brown, brown to reddish brown. Here are some pictures. I think it came out quite good and will look better when ballasted.
This week, the dirty dozen will be heading to my place as I host the Tuesday Nighters.
Yesterday, the weather was abnormally warm for this time of the year. Actually it hit 31.3 C. This inspired me to get out the airbrush and do some rusting of the side rails as I cannot bear looking at those unrealistic shiny sides. Using my previous mix of humbrols, I got cracking. Unfortunately on two occasions I forget to add the cover to the cup where the paint is kept on the airbrush and most of the paint landed on the concrete instead. The hardest part when it comes to airbrushing is the preparation and the cleaning of the airbrush after, which takes alot of time. However, the speed of execution and end result make it all worth while.
I also managed to paint my I and QR wagon which I had built awhile back but never got to painting.
In real life rust has different hues, and hence track can be grey, dark-brown, brown to reddish brown. Here are some pictures. I think it came out quite good and will look better when ballasted.
Freshly "rusted"
Before
After
This week, the dirty dozen will be heading to my place as I host the Tuesday Nighters.
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