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Saturday, May 15, 2010

John Amrstrong in Track Planning for Realistic Operation makes a couple of interesting points which have stuck.

1. Try and make a portion of track laid down for more than one purpose. (Efficiency in the use of the available space)
2. Don't repeat the same thing twice.
3. Plan for more edge (accessibility)

With point 1, I think going with a longer road number 2 followed by a left hand point into the yard proper about 100cm farther down which creates a Road Number 2a (see Nhill track diagram )
- this in effect can also be used as a head shunt.

With Point 2 i touched on in my previous post - why create another town with the same core principal which is to shunt and take refugee for a cross

With point 3, try and plan to lay your tracks closer to you rather towards the back for cleaning and maintenance, depending on height, 60cms to reach could cause problems.

Here is a youtube video of a train length which seems realistic for a B Class (could even get away with a double header S and B? Not sure.)

Wednesday, May 12, 2010

Some things I learnt

Having visited the Brisbane Model Train Show recently, it got me thinking about my own layout and more so the short comings. In summary, it boils down to trying to do too much is the space I have.
IMHO, the biggest contributor to a realistic model train layout is the scenery. Without realistic scenery, my model layout is simply a trainset.

So, with this mind, I decided to once again change the layout!

Now, I learnt by looking at various signal and track diagrams, real railroads use *alot* of space and that 100 meters in real life is about 100 cms in HO scale. So I have decided to expand No1 and No2 roads so that when a long train comes into a stop for a cross, the tail of the train is not just fitting in, but has some space at the end just like in the prototype. Also, if I want to double head or even triple head now I can with luxury and not worry about the ass end fitting into the loop.

Now to me a long train is about 14 VLX Box cars - which looks pretty long anyway. This is the maximum length train I intend to run - (about 200cms long)

So, gone are the foreground tracks on the plan and if I want to just watch trains go by I still have a loop - this will only happen when I am not playing realistically - such as to a timetable.

So some of the lessons learnt

* 100 cms is about 100 meters in real life which is approx 7.5 VLX wagons (40foot wagons)
* Don't lay down too much track
* Scenery is a must have - including structures
* Think big (track plan wise e.g. for loop, and yards - 100 cm crossing loops won't cut it)
* Focus on one area and do it thoroughly
* No point repeating what's already modeled in one scene again - e.g. on the plan I had a station at opposite ends - maybe better to have a country scene at one end and an immediate station scene at the other.

Anyway, unfortunately I learnt the hard way.

Your thoughts are welcome.

Good luck!

Sunday, May 2, 2010

Sealing the Shed

Well I have been busy the last two days sealing the shed. I went out and bought a Selleys Sealant Gun and Sealant and began to seal the shed as much as I could. I hope this will stop the dirt and dust from coming in. This is a titan shed and the way the shed is made, the sheet metal has an opening every few cms allowing not only dirt, but also grass, spiders and cockroaches!

So I set out and sealed every hole I could - although it will be impossible to stop these creatures for entering, at least it should slow them down somewhat - I couldn't believe the amount of daddy long legs under the workbench. I really hope this works.
The geckos were the worst as they leave their droppings everywhere - if anyone has had some success with sealing their train room I'd like to hear about it.

Tomorrow I'm off to the Brisbane Model Train Show.

Cheer!

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